Superb sushi and funky fusion - D'FLY Cheltenham

Here at SeafoodShack we cover great seafood all over the world. This week, however, I am delighted to report on a new find very close to home - D'FLY in Cheltenham. This imaginative venue has developed during 2009 to offer a marvellous array of food including Thai, Asian and Fusion styles as well as modern British. However, as a seafood junkie it was the sushi menu that caught my eye. The team of chefs seems to be getting more impressive by the minute, with a sushi specialist from Monte Carlo now joined by Dale Lepperts, lately the Executive Chef at Cowley Manor.

We visited on a Saturday night, and the joint was indeed jumping. The bar area was buzzing with both happy folk on a night out and beats mixed for the occasion. At the other end of the space, the restaurant was pretty full too and I think we were lucky to get a table. Equipped with a pint of Budvar and a glass of unoaked Chardonnay, we tackled the mixed nigiri/sashimi/maki platter as a starter. It was first class, with choice salmon, tuna and a white fish nigiri (4) and sashimi (3 x 3 slices - thickly cut and excellent). 6 tuna maki rolls completed the platter, which was beautifully served with wasabi, ginger and a small carafe of soy sauce.

We went for Asian main courses - my beef rendang was really good, the best I've had outside Asia for some time with plenty of spice and star anise flavour. Coconut rice proved a splendid accompaniment. Jenny went for the Singapore Laksa soup as a main course was pretty authentic too, great colour and taste. (She said she could use more chilli heat, but regular readers will know this may say more about her than the food!)

D'Fly are now having music on several evenings a week (latin guitar on Wednesdays, jazz sax on Thursdays, folk and soul on Fridays) along with weekend beats, a jazz jam on the first Sunday of the month and more gigs to come. Well worth a visit or two. Also try the Sushi Club - their top ten sushi dishes for £3 each Tuesday - Thursday 6pm - 10pm.

D'FLY, 1a Crescent Place, Cheltenham GL50 3NX, Tel 01242 246060, www.dflycheltenham.co.uk

A rising star in Reykjavik - Hrefna Rósa Sætran and Fish Market

Quite a backlog of interesting seafood places to report on during the past couple of months, and I am very exciting to start with a remarkably excellent restaurant in Rejkjavik, Iceland. The Icelandic Kronor having collapsed in recent months, the country is even more accessible to tourists and we've been up there sampling the marvellous landscapes and eating the wildlife - in this case fish.

Fish Market is run by head chef Hrefna Rósa Sætran - she is just 27 years old and is definitely one to watch. The place has a very nice sophisticated atmosphere, very groovy and offering fusion cooking based around local fish and other ingredients. Normally I run a mile from 'fusion', but here it's carried off very well indeed, lots of Japanese influences. The place won an award from Condé Nast Traveler, Hot List Tables 2008, who say it's the chicest hangout in Rejkjavik.

We went for the 9-course tasting menu at Kr 8900 each (around £40) - a pretty reasonable price in this still-expensive-but-now just-about-affordable part of the world. Three starters - firstly (and deliciously) clams with caviar, soy and seaweed served with chilli. Then Chinese-style pork rib with star anise, and bread with black rice vinegar sauce. Finally wasabi salad - crisp lettuce with parmesan crunch, soy jelly (wonderfully intense) and sesame.

Then a sushi plate arrived - excellent quality, featuring scallop, eel, salmon and squid. The basement sushi bar is very upmarket Tokyo, not a conveyor belt in sight. Delicious.
Mains started with lightly salted cod (rather like bacalao) with jerusalem artichoke (a flavour you don't get very often, and very nice), celery, raisins and black cherry sauce. Next up Atlantic catfish with brown rice, pineapple and chilli/satay sauce. Finally lamb chops (another icelandic favourite, they have lots of sheep) with blueberry sauce, pickled onions and potato foam (works better than it sounds!).

A selection of deserts concluded our meal - creme brulee, Snickers tart (excellent and peanutty, obviously), white chocolate mousse, mango sorbet, vanilla icecream, meringue and fruit including watermelon, kiwi, strawberries, melon and blueberries. All washed down with a couple of bottles of pinot grigio, very nice and clean.

This was by some way the most imaginative food we have had during our visits to Iceland, and would be a must-try for any seafood enthusiast in the area. And as for Hrefna Rósa Sætran, keep an eye open...

Fish Market (Fiskmaradurinn), Adalstraeti 12, Rejkjavik, Iceland, Tel +354 578 8877, www.fiskmarkadurinn.is.

Aha...Ahi! Japanese style seafood in Hawaii – Sansei

Visiting Hawaii is a great opportunity to eat great fish. Although a lot of the classic seafood about which I usually write comes from cold waters (and so lobster, crab and oysters are not very present on the menu) there is always fantastically fresh 'ahi' – Yellowfin Tuna. The flesh of the ahi is wonderfully delicious served as raw as sashimi or seared, and is a regular feature on Hawaiian menus. And it's not endangered either – rated as 'least conern' by the World Conservation Union.

Having arrived on the big island of Hawaii (also called Hawaii, confusingly – the capital Honolulu is on the small island of Oahu) for a conference, we've had a little time to explore and found a great spot for Japanese oriented seafood at reasonable prices. The Sansei Restaurant and Sushi Bar is located in the Queens Market Place at Waikoloa Beach Resort, about 45 minutes north of the town of Kona and close to many of the top resorts. The atmosphere is very nice – a combination of Japanese and American family style diner with a sushi bar at one end (lots of top-grade raw fish on display) and a very well-stocked bar to one side.

Jenny and I went for the tasting menu at $80 for two – very reasonable in Hawaii terms, where the fact that most food is imported means that prices are high at best and exorbitant at worst. Miso soup comes with the meal – and a choice of whether to have it western-style (at the start) or Japanese-style (and finish with it). We went Japanese. First up was a bowl of edamame beans (soy beans) in their shells, a tradition Japanese nibble, along with out drinks. Jenny went for their new 'sake flight' – three different cold sakes to sample, which was very interesting indeed. The Masuni 'Okuden Kantsukeri' was smooth and tasty, the Dewazakura 'Dewesansan' delicate and feminine and the Tedorigawa 'Iki na Onno' (my favourite) tasty and long. I was driving and so limited myself (tiny sips of sake aside) to one beer, a local Kona Red Ale (served very cold in a 20 oz pint as opposed to the usual US 16 oz abomination).

The main food items commenced with Sansei's Mango Crab Salad Hand Roll (best eaten with the fingers to pick up the chilli dipping sauce) and Sansei Special Roll (crab, cucumber and avocado) eaten sushi-style with ginger, wasabi and soy sauce). The best of the sushi came next – delicious panko-encrusted ahi sashimi sushi roll – basically a top-quality cylindier of ahi coated in spinach, arugula (rocket) and light Japanese breadcrumbs, served with a mild soy wasabi butter sauce – wow! The ahi just melts in the mouth. Mmmmm. In the picture we had already eaten some of it, hence the messy plate!

On with the seafood! Next up was Japanese calamari salad – fried in Kochujang vinaigrette over local greens in a won ton basket (delicious sauce, slightly tangy, pictured), and Asian shrimp cake crusted with crispy chinese noodles (very thin) with ginger-lime chilli butter and cilantro (coriander) pesto (also pictured). The crispy noodles added some very nice crunch to this dish.

We finished with two fish dishes, Matsuhisa style miso butterfish (black cod) marinated and smeared in sake and sweet miso was very rich, the fish cooked just to perfection so it was soft and melting, and (just in case you were still not quite satisfied) lobster and blue crab ravioli with truffled shiitake mushroom and maderia cream sauce (perhaps the richest thing I have eaten in the last 12 months, and that's saying something!). And then, of course, the Miso soup as a palate cleanser and digestif. Ending with the soup seemed to make good sense to me – back to reality after the exceptional and tasty dishes we had enjoyed. Service was exceptionally friendly and helpful.

Sansei, under the direction of owner and chef DK Kodama, also has restaurants at Kapalua and Kihei on Maui and Waikiki Beach on Oahu. Well worth tracking down. Maholo and Aloha! Sansei Seafood Restaurnant and Sushi Bar, Waikoloa Beach Resort, Queen's Marketplace, 201 Waikoloa Beach Drive Suite 801, Waikoloa, HI 96738, (808) 886-6286, dinner only 5.30 – 10.00pm. www.dkrestaurants.com.

Singapore Swing II - bargain Japanese in Orchard Road

One of the great Singapore features are food courts and hawker centres. These places can easily feature 30 - 40 different outlets or stalls, each specialising in a particular cuisine, food type or even dish. There will also be a dessert stand, a fruits stand (in Singlish the plural of fruit is fruits - obvious really), a drinks place with juices, and lots more. These are sometimes found in neigbourhood settings - in Singapore everyone basically eats out all the time and why not, when you can get a great meal for $Sing 4 (about £1.60). However, they also crop up in upmarket places - including the bustling Orchard Road, mecca for shopping (the other national sport for Singaporeans apart from eating).

The Food Republic centre in the Wisma Atria, Orchard Road, is one of our favourite places to catch a bite after some exhuasting electronics shopping and book browsing in the excellent and well-stocked branch of Borders at Wheelock Place. There are dozens of places there, with a good emphasis on Malay food and lots of choice...but somehow we always end up at the Koh Grill & Sushi Bar. This is a Japanese eatery, with a counter to sit at or tables for larger parties. Behind the counter are a small army of chefs preparing sushi, rice, frying, broiling and generally preparing some excellent and bargain Japanese food.

We started with a selection of sashimi (sliced raw fish) including some unusual items - raw prawns (really raw, translucent and not at all pink), and sliced clam. Yummy, and not at all easy to find. You can of course get more regular items like salmon, squid, umagi (eel) etc. We followed up with wonderful bento box meals - mine featured grilled salmon, tempura prawns in delicate light better, tempura veggies, rice and tofu with pickles. These set meals are fanstastic value, arouen $Sing 14 - about five English pounds. There are lots of different options too, including sukiyaki, teriyaki chicken and salmon, plenty of help in working out what's what and a range of sakis and cold Japanese beers to wash it all down.

This is not, of course, a place for a relaxing and intimate dinner. It's a bustling place with people coming and going, action all the time and a great spot for food on the way home or indeed on the way out. A great way to get some fine Japanese good at bargain prices right in the heart of the shopping area - and therefore a really good example of a top Seafoodshack! Koh Grill & Sushi Bar, Wisma Atria, #4-21 (Food Republic), tel 65-6836 0609. No website, just drop in and eat.