Arresting arosto – The Seahorse, Dartmouth

Our quick summer trip in search of good UK seafood led this year to Dartmouth in Devon. With the dramatically picturesque Dart valley carrying the season’s rainfall from Dartmouth through the steep-sided landscape, this has been a seaport since time immemorial – Walter Raleigh was a visitor, and the Royal Navy still trains its officers at Britannia Naval College which overlooks the bustling town centre.

Commodore of the clams is seafood entrepreneur Mitch Tonks, formerly to be found at the helm of fish shop/restaurant chain Fish Works. Tonks has taken a back-to-basics approach with his new Seahorse restaurant, with char-grilled fish as the house speciality. We arrived to find the restaurant completely fully booked on a Wednesday, so he’s clearly doing something right. Fortunately we had a table reserved, and enjoyed a glass of champagne with smoked cod roe and butter – slightly taramasalata-ish with some nice bread while we perused the menu.

Bright young maitre-d Ed showed us the days selection of fish, including some nice-looking queen scallops which would be grilled on the shell with breadcrumbs. Six of those to share then, with shrimps on toast for me and linguini with lobster, chilli and parsley for Jen. The scallops were excellent, very hot from the grill and just perfectly done. My shrimps on toast were also lovely, the delicate flavour complemented by plenty of butter. The linguini was perhaps a touch short on chilli according to my companion, but as she like chilli sauce with everything this may or may not be am observation of general relevance. We washed it all down with a bottle of slightly upmarket Nocolas Choblet Signature Muscadet, which was very dry (of course) and also had enough flavour to go well with everything (a nice surprise).

Mains – well, it has to be fish. I picked the arosto misto selection of char-grilled fish, the signature dish, while Jen had fritto misto (fried fish). My arosto was top-notch, the selection of fish including monkfish, squid and sea bass, cooked beautifully with herbs and olive oil. The fish was a great combination of different textures, and was very tasty indeed. The fritto misto featured gurnard alongside the other fish, and was similarly good. Sides of chips and salad went down well. Keeping on, we shared a cheese plate (including some wonderfully well-chosen tasty Gruyere, a very pleasant surprise) and a couple of glasses of port.

The Seahorse is clearly competing with John Burton Race’s New Angel which is just a couple of doors down. Tonks has priced his establishment very well indeed – quite a bargain, not much more that one might pay in an average restaurant for what is really top-quality fare. No wonder it was full. Book early – and, if you’ve any sense, book often. The Seahorse Restaurant, 5 South Embankment, Dartmouth TQ6 9BH, Tel: 01803 835147, http://www.seahorserestaurant.co.uk/.

Traditional British seafood - the Trawlerman, West Bay

As part of our recent Jurassic Coast outing, Jenny and I found ourselved in West Bay, just to the south of Bridport in Dorset. We were in search of a quick lunch and were wandering around wondering whether to have fish and chips from the many kiosks on the harbourside. Then Jenny noticed a sign down a small lane - 'Seafood Garden'. We wandered over and discovered The Trawlerman.

The Trawlerman is a fish shop - well, more of a seafood shop in fact - set in a quiet back street just a few yards away from the bustling harbour. It has a small patio outside, with some table featuring river/harbour views - this was the Seafood Garden we had seen. We had a look at the shop and were told by a very authentic-looking fisherman emerging that the seafood platter was the finest in West Bay. "It's pricey, mind", he added, "but you won't go away hungry." Whether around £16.50 is pricey for seafood for two could be described as a moot point, but we certainly didn't go away hungry.

What you get is absolutely traditional British seafood: dressed crab (very good), large tiger prawns, smaller tail-on prawns, even small shrimps/prawns with shell-on (very link and traditional), cockles (pickled in vinegar), mussels, large green-lipped mussels, winkles (and a cocktail stick with which to winkle them). All served on a big platter.

Everything else is extra. Bread and butter, lemons, drinks (diet Coke), whatever. You can take your own wine. It's very basic, very British and somehow just the job for a lunchtime seafood fest. Nothing to worry the hip Riverside restaurant next door, but that isn't the point. This is the kind of place I have searched for in vain in several seaside resorts (Morecambe, hang your head in shame!) - I was delighted to find it here.

The Trawlerman5 George Street, West Bay, BRIDPORT, DT6 4EY, Tel 01308 425776

Port of Lancaster Smokehouse

The Port of Lancaster Smokehouse, situated in the little and out-of-the-way village of Glasson near Lancaster, is a real seafood shack. Not only does it look exactly like a shack (see the picture), they also make and sell some of the finest smoked salmon (including wild Lune salmon), kippers and mackerel, and potted Morecambe Bay Shrimps (not smoked). Absolutely delicious and well worth a visit. Their website is http://www.polsco.co.uk.