A rising star in Reykjavik - Hrefna Rósa Sætran and Fish Market

Quite a backlog of interesting seafood places to report on during the past couple of months, and I am very exciting to start with a remarkably excellent restaurant in Rejkjavik, Iceland. The Icelandic Kronor having collapsed in recent months, the country is even more accessible to tourists and we've been up there sampling the marvellous landscapes and eating the wildlife - in this case fish.

Fish Market is run by head chef Hrefna Rósa Sætran - she is just 27 years old and is definitely one to watch. The place has a very nice sophisticated atmosphere, very groovy and offering fusion cooking based around local fish and other ingredients. Normally I run a mile from 'fusion', but here it's carried off very well indeed, lots of Japanese influences. The place won an award from Condé Nast Traveler, Hot List Tables 2008, who say it's the chicest hangout in Rejkjavik.

We went for the 9-course tasting menu at Kr 8900 each (around £40) - a pretty reasonable price in this still-expensive-but-now just-about-affordable part of the world. Three starters - firstly (and deliciously) clams with caviar, soy and seaweed served with chilli. Then Chinese-style pork rib with star anise, and bread with black rice vinegar sauce. Finally wasabi salad - crisp lettuce with parmesan crunch, soy jelly (wonderfully intense) and sesame.

Then a sushi plate arrived - excellent quality, featuring scallop, eel, salmon and squid. The basement sushi bar is very upmarket Tokyo, not a conveyor belt in sight. Delicious.
Mains started with lightly salted cod (rather like bacalao) with jerusalem artichoke (a flavour you don't get very often, and very nice), celery, raisins and black cherry sauce. Next up Atlantic catfish with brown rice, pineapple and chilli/satay sauce. Finally lamb chops (another icelandic favourite, they have lots of sheep) with blueberry sauce, pickled onions and potato foam (works better than it sounds!).

A selection of deserts concluded our meal - creme brulee, Snickers tart (excellent and peanutty, obviously), white chocolate mousse, mango sorbet, vanilla icecream, meringue and fruit including watermelon, kiwi, strawberries, melon and blueberries. All washed down with a couple of bottles of pinot grigio, very nice and clean.

This was by some way the most imaginative food we have had during our visits to Iceland, and would be a must-try for any seafood enthusiast in the area. And as for Hrefna Rósa Sætran, keep an eye open...

Fish Market (Fiskmaradurinn), Adalstraeti 12, Rejkjavik, Iceland, Tel +354 578 8877, www.fiskmarkadurinn.is.

Jazz, catfish and Tabasco

The other day I was wondering how to cook the catfish fillets sent by the splendid people at Fish In A Box and started looking around for recipes. My sister, a professional development chef, advised frying them in cornmeal, which is apparently the tradition way in the Southern US of A. Then I came across a more detailed recipe in the excellent book Jazz Cooks.

This book has long had a place on my kitchen shelf. It consists of favourite recipes from a whole range of jazz musicians, together with interviews with each, specially taken photos and background detail. The book is organised not by food categories (as one might expect from a recipe book) but by instrument! However the full index means that recipes can be located easily enough - including one for Branford Marsalis' favourite catfish.

Jazz fans out there will know that Branford Marsalis is a mean saxophone player, with a particular reputation for the soprano sax. He is also brother of Wynton Marsalis, trumpeter of great repute and part of the jazz dynasty coming from New Orleans (though he now lives in New York). He gives his mother's recipe for fried catfish - and very good it is too.

Take catfish fillets and coat them with salt, pepper and dried dill (I used about a tablespoon for 2 fillets). Leave them in the fridge for at least a few hours, up to 24 hours, for the dill to penetrate. When it's time to cook them, dip in beaten egg and coat with corn meal. Corn meal is finely powered polenta, you can get it in the Jamaican food section at Tesco (at least that's where I found mine - and at 35p for a big bag it won't break the bank). Fry in oil (I used sunflower, though the recipe says peanut oil) for about 5 minutes per side until golden brown and serve immediately.

Mrs Marsalis' recipe says to serve with cornbread and Tabasco . We didn't have any cornbread, but I did try some Tabasco - and much to my surprise it worked really well. Normally I just like some lemon juice with my fish, but there's something rich and meaty about the fried catfish that was gingered up very nicely by a few drops of McIlhenny's finest. A great surprise and a welcome excuse for some great heat in the meal. Go ahead and try it!

Fish In A Box - fresh fish direct to your door

Last week saw the first Food & Drink festival in our home town of Cheltenham. Lots of cheeses, sausages, local beers etc...but our eye was caught by one of the few fish suppliers to exhibit, Fish In A Box. In particular my eye was taken by a smashing-looking box of fresh fish on ice. We have a good frozen fish supplier here, and Waitrose and Tesco have wet fish counters, but Cheltenham has (shockingly) not supported a proper fish-shop for several years. So, we were excited at the prospect of getting some good fresh fish.

Fish In A Box (http://www.fishinabox.co.uk/) is run out of Newport, Shropshire by business partners Fiona Asson and John Perry. They offer a service whereby customers can not only order fresh fish, but also (and this is what excited me) order boxes by quantity of fish (for example a meal for 4 people) and leave the choice up to Fishinabox, depending on what's good that particular day. Jenny and I saw this as a chance to break out of our usual grilled salmon rut, so ordered two boxes - one meal for 4 people and two meals for 2 people - for delivery the following Wednesday.

Wednesday came, at 8.30am the doorbell rang and a large box marked' this way up' arrived. Inside were two recycleable polystyrene boxes with our fish - and an excellent selection it was too. We had fillets of lemon sole (absolutely delicious, I grilled them and served with a salsa verde) and catfish fillets (my sister says to fry this with cornmeal in the good-ol' Suthern style). The meal for four was halibut fillets from a new Scottish farm - more on this next time.

The fish has not been frozen, and so can go into the freezer if necessary. It's not the cheapest option and normal delivery is around £7 per consignment outside their catchment area in the NW Midlands, but we're very impressed with the quality of the fish we've had. What an excellent way to explore some new fish eating for people like us who can't decide what to have!