Superb sushi and funky fusion - D'FLY Cheltenham

Here at SeafoodShack we cover great seafood all over the world. This week, however, I am delighted to report on a new find very close to home - D'FLY in Cheltenham. This imaginative venue has developed during 2009 to offer a marvellous array of food including Thai, Asian and Fusion styles as well as modern British. However, as a seafood junkie it was the sushi menu that caught my eye. The team of chefs seems to be getting more impressive by the minute, with a sushi specialist from Monte Carlo now joined by Dale Lepperts, lately the Executive Chef at Cowley Manor.

We visited on a Saturday night, and the joint was indeed jumping. The bar area was buzzing with both happy folk on a night out and beats mixed for the occasion. At the other end of the space, the restaurant was pretty full too and I think we were lucky to get a table. Equipped with a pint of Budvar and a glass of unoaked Chardonnay, we tackled the mixed nigiri/sashimi/maki platter as a starter. It was first class, with choice salmon, tuna and a white fish nigiri (4) and sashimi (3 x 3 slices - thickly cut and excellent). 6 tuna maki rolls completed the platter, which was beautifully served with wasabi, ginger and a small carafe of soy sauce.

We went for Asian main courses - my beef rendang was really good, the best I've had outside Asia for some time with plenty of spice and star anise flavour. Coconut rice proved a splendid accompaniment. Jenny went for the Singapore Laksa soup as a main course was pretty authentic too, great colour and taste. (She said she could use more chilli heat, but regular readers will know this may say more about her than the food!)

D'Fly are now having music on several evenings a week (latin guitar on Wednesdays, jazz sax on Thursdays, folk and soul on Fridays) along with weekend beats, a jazz jam on the first Sunday of the month and more gigs to come. Well worth a visit or two. Also try the Sushi Club - their top ten sushi dishes for £3 each Tuesday - Thursday 6pm - 10pm.

D'FLY, 1a Crescent Place, Cheltenham GL50 3NX, Tel 01242 246060, www.dflycheltenham.co.uk

Delicious tapas - Browns Hotel, Dartmouth

During our recent Devon visit we had an evening to spare. Having had excellent dinners, breakfasts and lunches for some time, we weren't really feeling up to another full blow-out, and were wondering what to do. Then we struck lucky at Browns.

This is a boutique hotel just set back a couple of hundred yards from the busy front at Dartmouth. The restaurant is certainly stylish, with interestingly modern furniture and decor. Perusing the menu we tucked into a plate of green padron peppers - fried and salted - which were a new find for me. About one in ten is really hot, so there's an element of russion roulette about popping one into your mouth!

Two starters seemed like the way to go - all the started looked very interesting. Jen had a mixed tapas platter, for which this place is justifiably famous - grilled chorizo, salami, machego, anchovies, hummus, tara, olives... what's not to like? I had a plate of local marsh samphire (a real find these days) with poached egg and caper dressing - very tasty.

We followed up with squid, pan fried with a caper, lemon and harissa dressing. This was really first-rate, delicious juices to be mopped up with bread, tasty, and a fine way with squid. I washed it a bottle of West Country Ales' Shingle Bay, a light-ish and well hopped brew. A splendid way to end our trip. Browns Hotel and Restaurant, 27-29 Victoria Rd Dartmouth Devon TQ6 9RT Tel: (+44) 01803 832572 http://www.brownshoteldartmouth.co.uk/

Distant Devon delights - The Anchorstone Cafe, Dittisham

This is the story of a seafood platter. Not just any seafood platter, but the seafood platter from the Anchorstone Cafe, Dittisham. This may perhaps be the hardest seafood platter to get in the whole world...

During our visit to Dartmouth (see the previous post on Mitch Tonks' Seahorse restaurant) we had a nice lazy day exploring the area. One option is to take the little ferry up the river Dart to the village of Dittisham. Small red and yellow ferry boats - maximum capacity 12 persons - leave from the Dartmouth Town Steps jetty every half hour or so, and the roughly three miles (along the river) trip takes 20-25 minutes depending on the tide.

Arriving in Dittisham, what strikes you is firstly the beauty of the spot (Agatha Christie's Greenway mansion is just across the river, which plays host to millions of pounds worth of yacht), and second just how remote it is. I am assured that it IS possible to drive there - but the roads are utterly narrow, hedges give zero visibility and the jetty, pub and the cafe at at the bottom of a very steep hill. Boat is much the easiest option. Then you have to get a table.

I phoned the Anchorstone in advance, who do take bookings but only for 12 noon sharp! We were there bang on time and were rewarded with a very choice table overlooking the river, so it was well worth the effort. The menu features various interesting looking seafood options which change daily, often including fresh Start Bay crab salad. However, we went for their seafood platter...and what a platter it is. Ready?

Shell-on prawns, smoked salmon, fresh dressed crab, rollmop herrings, peeled salad prawns, an oyster, smoked mackerel, anchovy fillets, salad leaves, cous cous, tomato and cucumber, potato salad, red cabbage coleslaw, marie-rose sauce, brown bread and butter - and then freshly fried crispy calamari arrived a few moments later to complete the deal. £14.95, but very well spent. A nice pint of cold Peroni lager, a sunny lunchtime, wonderful scenery... ah, the essence of SeafoodShack.

The Anchorstone Cafe, Manor Street, Dittisham, Dartmouth TQ6 0EX Tel: 01803 722365 No website but try http://tinyurl.com/mbo46o.