Superb smoked fish on the banks of the Severn - the Severn & Wye Smokery

Many people don’t know that the county of Gloucestershire is almost split into two parts by the river Severn. The larger eastern part is home to the Cotswolds, Cheltenham, Gloucester, Prince Charles and much of the country’s polo scene. In the west, however, a small sliver of the county extends down the bank of the Severn. This area is best known for the Forest of Dean, but there is also a verdant band of farming territory close to the river.

And there, about 5 miles down the A48 Gloucester – Chepstow road, lies the Severn & Wye Smokery. I must have driven this road a number of times and yet never noticed this particular establishment – its modest façade gives little clue of either the smokehouse or the café that lies within. Severn & Wye smoke fish on the premises, and specialise in locally caught wild salmon. They offer a whole range of smoked fish, meat and other products, all smoked over a blend of oak chips and chipped whisky and calvados barrels for a unique taste. The finished product ends up in Fortnum & Mason and Selfridges amongst other places – they also supply the Reservoir, another of our favourite spots. And you can even shop online at http://www.severnandwye.co.uk/.

Even more excitingly for the seafood lover, Severn & Wye have a café and shop on the premises. I went for lunch this week, and was absolutely stunned by the scope and range of what was on offer. I had expected a modest place serving up smoked fish. What I found was pretty much a full-on yet informal fish restaurant, the finest array of fresh fish for at least 20 miles in all directions, cheeses and meats and other products from artisan suppliers and a welcoming café with wonderful cakes and pastries. What a find!

Our party of three went for a full range of lunchtime food. I had the smoked fish platter (well, you have to check out the core product, surely…). Smoked mackerel, salmon, eel and halibut slices with some salad, lemony mayo (quite sharp, very nice) and bread and (locally churned) butter. It’s not often I find smoked halibut on my plate, and this was very delicious, white and meatily textured.

My companions went for the seafood stew (quite tomato oriented, with excellent salmon amongst the other fish) and scallops with pancetta (a huge slice of pancetta flying high like a sail above the scallops – see the picture alongside). We could have chosen from a great variety of fish dishes, and the menu is chalked on the wall and clearly changes frequently. Another party were tucking into huge portions of fish and chips. We ended our visit with a major round of shopping, picking up fishcakes, smoked salmon and lovely bread. This is a crucial spot for anyone in Gloucestershire or South Wales to come and try. Note that it’s only open during the day, lunch menu from 12 – 2.30.

Severn & Wye Smokery, Chaxhill, Westbury-On-Severn, Gloucestershire GL14 1QW, 01452 760190, http://www.severnandwye.co.uk/.