The Highwayman Inn is a part of Nigel Haworth's Northcote Manor empire, which now features three pubs in the Ribble Valley Inns group as well as the mothership hotel. Located on the A683 between Lancaster (M6 junction 34)and Kirkby Lonsdale in the village of Burrow, the Inn was reopened in Spring 2007 following a £1m+ refit to much publicity, including a write-up in the Financial Times. Clearly this is not just any old roadside pub! Great emphasis is placed on sourcing from first-rate local suppliers, and presenting good food without too much fuss. I have visited several times in the last couple of years, and always found a warm welcome and excellent grub. This time, though, with my Seafoodshack hat on, I was setting out to give the seafood a good look.
This was an icy December evening, and although the place was not full all the fires were blazing and the staff very welcoming. I settled down with a pint of German Warsteiner lager (not easy to find here in the UK – draught Thwaites ales including Wainwright and Lancaster Bomber are also on offer) and perused the menu. The local seafood platter clearly had my name on it as a generous starter. What with the cold outside, I couldn't resist the minced rump steak burger to follow.
The seafood platter was sensational. Port of Lancaster Beech and Juniper smoked salmon (I wrote about the PoL smokehouse in an early seafood shack post) was dark and rich, yet subtly flavoured. Kipper fillet from the same source (a surprising inclusion in a platter like this) was served hot, quite robustly flavoured. Hot smoked trout, served cold (the 'hot smoked' refers to the cooking process!) was very tasty and delicate. Potted Morecambe Bay shrimps, warm in a ramekin, were absolutely delicious, the tasty spicy butter being mopped up with home-made brown bread. Pickled mussels gave a nice sharp element, along with pickled cucumber and beetroot relish. Horseradish cream (light yet rich) added a lovely savoury element. A generous cube of butter to go with the bread, more of which arrived unbidden as I finished the first lot. £8.50. Brilliant – what a starter! They also do a large version to share (or not, if you're feeling greedy).
The main course was no less superb (though inevitably less fishy). To describe it fully: minced organic Far Cappleside Farm rump steak topped with Dewley creamy Lancashire cheese, English muffin, real chips (cooked in dripping, as God intended, and dressed with sea salt), tomato relish (quite runny, good for dipping the chips), mustard mayonnaise, piccalilli, salad. This was all fantastic once again – the meat cooked medium (pink) as I requested, and easily good enough to take serving this way. £9.75. Wonderful quality and supreme value for money.
I was lucky enough to be invited into the kitchen to meet chef Michael Ward and his team. Michael was originally a sous chef with Nigel Howarth quite a few years ago. He left to continue his sous career at various Lakeland restaurants, one of which gained a Michelin star, and kept in touch with Nigel. Offered the chance of the chef position at the Highwayman, Michael says he was dubious at first - “I didn't want to be a pub chef!” - but changed his mind on seeing the scale of the kitchen and the operation planned. Everything – really everything – is home made, including the excellent potted shrimps I had enjoyed earlier. Michael described the process over a mince pie.
A butter containing mace, tarragon, parsley, paprika, lemon juice and finely diced shallots is made up (15kg at a time!). The shrimps are brought in frozen in 1kg bags from local suppliers (Morecambe Bay is only a few miles away) and allowed to warm gently next to the char grill. The dish is combined and served warm. The only other place I've eater something similar was at Heston Blumenthal's Hinds Head pub in Bray, and I fancy that Michael's are even better – the combination of herbs and spices is interesting and flavourful, yet does not overpower the delicate shrimps.
The Highwayman is a real beacon of great food and cooking, well worth a detour if you're coming up the M6 and a must if you are staying in the area. The Highwayman Inn, Burrow, Kirkby Lonsdale, LA6 2RJ, 01524 273338, http://www.highwaymaninn.co.uk/.
