Tuesday 19 May 2009

Freshly smoked sole – a tradition in Texel, the Netherlands

I was at the SOLWorld 2009 conference on the Dutch island of Texel last week. Texel is the largest of the Fresian Islands on the North Sea coast, has 28km of wonderfully sandy beach and is a popular holiday destination for the Dutch.

As part of the event, the organisers had put on an evening dinner featuring freshly cooked specialities from the island – spit-roasted Texel lamb, freshly fried whole plaice, oysters on the half shell (rock oysters – delicious!) and smoked sole.

Now I hear you wondering – just a minute! Sole meuniere, yes, Grilled Dover sole, perfection. Pan-fried lemon sole, lovely. But smoked.....What's all that about? This was a rare treat, and absolutely delicious.

Cooking the sole were local fishermen Ron Buijsman and Robert Schulze – normally to be found aboard the fishing boat Biem Jan (TX3, if you're boat spotting in the North Sea). They are out every week, fishing for plaice, sole and turbot. Even though this was a local delicacy, it was the first time they had actually done smoked sole for a public group (even though they looked like old hands to me!).


The baby sole are slotted onto metal skewers and hot smoked over a wood fire. They are then simply taken out, skinned and eaten! What could be simpler? There is a definite knack to the skinning; first break off the head, then pull back towards the tail, taking the top skin off in one piece. Loosen the edge bones around the fish, then turn it over and, starting from the tail, remove the bottom skin and outer bones with another good pull. This leaves the main body of the fish around the central main bones – you simply pull the fish away from the bones and munch!

The smoked sole has quite a delicate taste – in this case the flesh was very soft and easy to eat, and the flavour, while well-defined, was not overpowering. A real outdoor eating treat. I have no idea how to get any more of this, but you might look out for it at your local smokery. Details about trips to Texel can be found at http://www.holland.com/global/discover/coast/resorts/texel.jsp.